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>> No. 25920 Anonymous
18th May 2017
Thursday 8:49 pm
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I was given a dated Archos tablet. After some messing about I can see the utility in them, but it can no longer run the latest versions of my Android apps.

I'm completely new to tablets, but I'm hoping to find something cheap and cheerful for reading (eBooks and my own notes), and some light internet browsing.

I'm thinking about one of the ASUS ZenPads, probably the bigger 10.1" one. Could this feasibly be used for comfortably study?
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>> No. 25922 Anonymous
19th May 2017
Friday 3:38 am
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For a tiny bit more money, you could get a convertible Windows tablet/laptop. The keyboard clips on and off with magnets, so you can use it as either a pure tablet or a dinky laptop. The tablet side of things is less slick than Android, but it'll probably be more useful for study.

>> No. 25923 Anonymous
19th May 2017
Friday 6:15 pm
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I'll never understand why companies persist in thinking putting magnets in electronics is a good idea.
>> No. 25924 Anonymous
19th May 2017
Friday 6:17 pm
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So you have to buy another one.
>> No. 25925 Anonymous
19th May 2017
Friday 11:56 pm
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Holy shit tablets have come a long way since I got mine. Looks like it's time for me to upgrade. Is any particular manufacturer considered to be leading the field at the moment?
>> No. 25926 Anonymous
21st May 2017
Sunday 11:26 am
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I can't compare it to Android tablets but the Kindle Fire tablets are pretty good value for money. Only problem is that they are by default hooked into Amazon's app store not Google Play, so quite a few apps available on Android are either not maintained as frequently or completely absent. I'd say it's great for reading ebooks and light internet browsing but if you have want to use a lot of specific non-Amazon apps you may be out of luck.

>> No. 23774 Anonymous
11th February 2015
Wednesday 11:49 am
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I have a USB hub that I sleep in the same room and its ultrabright boy racer blue LEDs are a nuisance. I can unplug it every night, but that's a nuisance. I've tried taping over the lights but the LEDs are so bright that they kick light out of the USB sockets etc and still manage to make the room glow blue at night.

I don't care about these LEDs and want them gone altogether. Can I open it up and pincer the LEDs, or would that damage the hub? I've had a quick look around on google but don't particularly trust the results.
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>> No. 25914 Anonymous
3rd May 2017
Wednesday 1:52 am
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You're much more likely to see prismatic or pouch cells in consumer electronics. Cylindrical cells just won't fit into most devices. It's usually only big stuff like power tools that use cylindrical cells. Laptops used to use cylindrical cells in a removable pack, but non-removable pouch cells are thinner and lighter. A protection PCB can be soldered or spot welded directly to the cell, as seen in this image.
>> No. 25915 Anonymous
3rd May 2017
Wednesday 2:54 am
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So where do they get used en masse? I know they're in quad copters and that kind of thing, anything else justifies mass production and brings the price down?
>> No. 25916 Anonymous
3rd May 2017
Wednesday 9:16 am
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Almost anything you see that's USB charged and not obviously 18650-shaped, will have pouch cells. They're available in hundreds of shapes and capacities, and generally work well, within their limits. https://www.aliexpress.com/store/group/Polymer-battery-wholesale/1681007_510525232.html
Shipping is a bitch, though.
>> No. 25917 Anonymous
3rd May 2017
Wednesday 12:04 pm
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Quadcopters and other RC thingumabobs use pouch cells, because you can achieve a higher discharge rate at the same weight. Cylindrical cells are mainly used in bulk applications - electric cars and bikes, power tools, that sort of thing. A cordless drill might use eight 18650s, an electric car might use a couple of thousand. The market for cylindrical cells is gradually moving towards the 21700 size, which is slightly more energy dense.

Pouch cells can be economically produced in fairly small quantities, so you can often design the battery to fit the product rather than vice-versa. This is a big advantage for mobile devices where every millimetre matters.
>> No. 25918 Anonymous
3rd May 2017
Wednesday 12:33 pm
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This thread continues to deliver. Good job lads.

>> No. 25899 Anonymous
2nd May 2017
Tuesday 9:35 pm
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I need a cheap printer, which will live in my bedroom, to kick out invoices and reports. I know from working with printers for a decade or so that early LaserJets are built like tanks and are absolutely reliable, as well as reasonably compact, and they're cheap on ebay... but unfortunately the toners/fusers are now quite pricey, equalling the cost of the printer or more.

Any advice on the cheapest way to print, per page? Just knocking out some draft-quality documents, colour not really needed but would be a mild bonus.
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>> No. 25907 Anonymous
2nd May 2017
Tuesday 10:59 pm
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Amazon sell a Pantum laser printer for 31 quid. It's wireless and black and white and I swear by mine.
>> No. 25909 Anonymous
2nd May 2017
Tuesday 11:05 pm
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Most of them. Epson are a bit odd - some of their inks are somewhat odd, with pigments held in a solvent that smells funny. (My R2400, for instance - pigment inks, and 8 colours. Tesco value ink isn't going to do the job for that. I buy the inks by the 0.5l and pipe them in to fake cartridges, CISS-style. )

So - maybe. Check t'internet.
>> No. 25910 Anonymous
2nd May 2017
Tuesday 11:48 pm
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Use knock-off toner cartridges. The print quality is very slightly worse than using original toner, but it's perfectly acceptable for office use. Knock-off drums are more of a mixed bag, so if you're buying a second-hand printer you might want to inquire about the condition of the drum.

You can get a perfectly good WiFi laser printer for £60.

>> No. 25911 Anonymous
2nd May 2017
Tuesday 11:52 pm
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Inkjets don't really make economic sense unless you print an awful lot of photos. Online photo printing services are much better value for the occasional set of prints.
>> No. 25912 Anonymous
3rd May 2017
Wednesday 1:05 am
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Seems like the toners are quite cheap, and can be refilled at home anyway. Might go for that one.

Shame it's not cheaper on ebay. Was hoping for something in the £40 region, with a toner that's good for 10,000 pages or something, like the HP ones.

>> No. 25894 Anonymous
28th April 2017
Friday 1:01 pm
25894 Handheld document/book scanner
This might be a bit of a strange request, but can anybody recommend a good quality, durable (battery and general lifespan) and reliable document and/or book scanner?
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>> No. 25895 Anonymous
28th April 2017
Friday 1:53 pm
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Handheld scanners are rubbish.

If you need to occasionally scan a few pages, use your phone. There are great apps that will instantly produce print-ready PDFs. As long as your phone has a half-decent camera, you'll get perfectly usable results.


If you need to digitise large quantities of documents, use a Scansnap iX500. It does 25ppm full duplex and you can get spare parts at a reasonable price. If you need to digitise large quantities of books that you don't mind destroying, take them to a printing shop and have them cut off the spine on their guillotine. You can then run the loose pages through the iX500.

If you need to digitise large quantities of books that you can't destroy, you'll want a dedicated book scanner. The Scansnap SV600 is acceptable, but the Archivist Quill is the cheapest serious option.
>> No. 25896 Anonymous
28th April 2017
Friday 6:27 pm
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Your phone.
>> No. 25897 Anonymous
28th April 2017
Friday 7:50 pm
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>If you need to occasionally scan a few pages, use your phone. There are great apps that will instantly produce print-ready PDFs. As long as your phone has a half-decent camera, you'll get perfectly usable results.
This. On top of simply spitting out images, some apps will even do cool things like pick out the edges of the document and distort the image so it has the right proportions, and then attempt to read it.

>> No. 25892 Anonymous
27th April 2017
Thursday 2:33 am
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Hello lads, I'm looking for a USB stick to record live TV shows on to, using my smart TV. It's a Sony KDL32W705C.

Can any one recommend a stick fast enough for my TV to record on to, it's got to be fast enough to record HD TV and has to be at least 64GB (The TV doesn't accept smaller sticks).

Also will I be able to record channels that I'm not watching, after doing some googling this seems to be a drawback of most TVs?
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>> No. 25893 Anonymous
27th April 2017
Thursday 5:19 am
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Like most TVs, the KDL32W705C only has one tuner. This means that you can't watch one programme while recording another - the TV can only tune in to one channel at a time.

I think you'd be better off with a streaming stick like a Fire TV Stick or a Chromecast. Everything you'd want to watch is available via streaming, without the faff of remembering to record anything. A decent 64GB USB stick is about £20, but a Chromecast is only £25 from Currys.

>> No. 25884 Anonymous
25th April 2017
Tuesday 11:09 am
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I'm in the market for a laptop, but I'm not sure if I can get away with meeting all my criteria.

- It'll be purely for business, the most demanding thing it will be opening is numerous Chrome tabs.
- It needs to run Windows software, with MS Office.
- I want it to be lightweight and no bigger than an A4 pad.

Is there any chance of me getting this for around £200?

I've been seeing refurbished X series Thinkpads from as little as £100, but maybe this is dodgy?

Do you lads know of something better?
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>> No. 25887 Anonymous
25th April 2017
Tuesday 4:21 pm
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People throw away laptops with those sorts of capabilities at the skip. Get down there quick and have a rummage, you might save some poor African kid the trouble.
>> No. 25888 Anonymous
25th April 2017
Tuesday 7:33 pm
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Agreed - many of the T series and X series of Lenovo are actually still IBM designs in disguise, before Lenovo bought them. They are very very good PCs and what I would have were I not a Mac person. We use them extensively at work, also. You can pick them up s/h very easily and they are quite upgradable and fixable.
>> No. 25889 Anonymous
25th April 2017
Tuesday 8:52 pm
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Thanks lads, I went with an X100E, which is meant to be highly portable. I'll report back whether it's up to much as a laptop.


A bigger or more fancy laptop really wouldn't suit my needs here. No sense in spending more than I have to.
>> No. 25890 Anonymous
25th April 2017
Tuesday 9:56 pm
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Good advice.
>It's also well worth considering an SSD upgrade
I would say that an SSD is one of the most important considerations for a new laptop (or PC for that matter). There's been plenty of evangelism for them here in the past so I'll spare you the sales pitch, but get one, even if it means getting a machine that's shittier in other ways.
>> No. 25891 Anonymous
26th April 2017
Wednesday 1:26 am
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Yep - easiest and most effective PC upgrade out there at the moment.

>> No. 25875 Anonymous
18th April 2017
Tuesday 3:14 am
25875 Predictions

This BBC documentary from 1994 predicted that everybody would be on the Internet in the future.

What predictions have you lads made whether they turned out true or false.

What predictions do you have for the future, ten years time, a hundred years time, may be even longer?

What predictions from films have come true and which predictions turned out to be utter bullocks?

Also did any of you lads experience the Internet or BBSs in the 80's or 90's?
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>> No. 25877 Anonymous
18th April 2017
Tuesday 5:51 pm
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I predicted about six weeks before the EU referendum that May would be the next leader of the Tories after seeing a very cagey and vague interview she did with the Beeb. I posted about it in the relevant thread on here somewhere, but have yet to receive my one million Swiss francs reward.

Also Deus Ex famously lacks the twin towers from the New York skyline.
>> No. 25878 Anonymous
18th April 2017
Tuesday 6:50 pm
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Not a prediction but when I was about 7 (which would be 1987) I had a dream I had a handheld "bus radar" which had a street map and showed where all the buses were moving about on it. It still kind of blows my mind that now there are apps for exactly that.
>> No. 25879 Anonymous
18th April 2017
Tuesday 8:41 pm
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I predict that within at least ten years, we'll be wearing in ear translators and the teaching of foreign languages will be entirely obsolete or just a hobby
>> No. 25880 Anonymous
18th April 2017
Tuesday 8:45 pm
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If anyone is interested you can view Usenet posts from 30 years ago as they would have appeared back then at http://olduse.net/ .
>> No. 25881 Anonymous
19th April 2017
Wednesday 12:39 am
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Actually, this is one of the few industries likely to survive 20+ years.

>> No. 25869 Anonymous
15th April 2017
Saturday 4:07 am
25869 Portable hard drive
Best way to recover data from a portable hard drive that was infuriatingly unplugged mid transit by some fucking half wit?

Please tell me there's a way. PLEASE.
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>> No. 25870 Anonymous
15th April 2017
Saturday 4:30 am
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Details, lad. What happened, what were you doing, and what fucking half-witted shit did you pull? What model, what filesystem, and what OS was on the machine it was plugged into?
>> No. 25871 Anonymous
15th April 2017
Saturday 9:40 am
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Why isn't there some sort of protection against simple things like this?
>> No. 25872 Anonymous
15th April 2017
Saturday 12:39 pm
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I was video editing on an mac, some video put her bag on the USB on the USB cable.
>> No. 25873 Anonymous
15th April 2017
Saturday 5:27 pm
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I don't think it's possible to protect yourself against all the possible ways you can be an idiot, such as using a removable hard drive in circumstances where someone could put a bag on it.

Sorry mate, you'll just have to buy a new Mac.
>> No. 25874 Anonymous
15th April 2017
Saturday 7:52 pm
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>> No. 25866 Anonymous
13th April 2017
Thursday 5:56 pm
25866 Iphone 7
'Evening, chaps.

I currently own an iPhone 6, but I'm coveting an iPhone 7.
Does anybody own an iPhone 7? Would it be worth it? Are they any different from an iPhone 6?

Cheers, chaps.
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>> No. 25867 Anonymous
14th April 2017
Friday 12:24 pm
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Stick with the 6S until next year would be my view. It's not enough of an upgrade over that to justify the cost.
>> No. 25868 Anonymous
14th April 2017
Friday 12:54 pm
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Ta very much, I appreciate it.

>> No. 25862 Anonymous
10th April 2017
Monday 12:59 pm
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Hey friends.

So I own my own business and I want a more pro sounding email address than @gmail.com, I'd like a @businessname.co.uk how would I go about doing this?

Thanks meights.
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>> No. 25863 Anonymous
10th April 2017
Monday 2:03 pm
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The same way you signed up for Gmail, but this time chuck 'em a few quid each month.
>> No. 25864 Anonymous
10th April 2017
Monday 3:16 pm
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What's the business? Shouldn't you have a website anyway, in which case you could get the email server through your hosting provider?

water alarm.jpg
>> No. 25856 Anonymous
28th February 2017
Tuesday 12:10 am
25856 Water alarm
Right, so my washing machine is spitting out water and it's done a number on the contents of the shelf under the sink. I'm going to seal its output but I bought a water alarm to be put on the floor in case I fuck it up, or something else leaks; the plumbing isn't great here. It's got two small metal sensor pads on the bottom which do a good job of making a racket when I dip it into water.

I have a question about this thing, though. The microcontroller (?) seems to be open to the air, and in my case water has been spewing out the top of a pipe, so there's a good chance it'll get inside if this happens again. Why is it open, and is there any reason why I wouldn't put a bit of tape over the hole (pointed to by the arrow)?
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>> No. 25857 Anonymous
28th February 2017
Tuesday 2:27 am
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I can't really say without a much higher-resolution image. There's a fairly good chance that the circuit board has a conformal coating - a very thin layer of waterproof lacquer protecting the entire board. The gap in the case might be there for a reason, or the manufacturer might have just re-used a case from another product.

The case as a whole clearly isn't waterproof. Taping up the gaps might provide some protection from water, or it might trap moisture inside the device and accelerate the rate of corrosion.

Ultimately, I'd suggest getting your washing machine repaired rather than trying to mitigate the effects of the leak.
>> No. 25858 Anonymous
28th February 2017
Tuesday 9:42 am
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>There's a fairly good chance that the circuit board has a conformal coating - a very thin layer of waterproof lacquer protecting the entire board
Makes sense, I'll take the risk and leave it as-is. I can't see any lacquer, the top of the chip looks matte, whereas I'd expect it to look shiny if there was a lacquer layer on top, but honestly I'm not sure I'd know it if I saw it - attached an image of the chip anyway, but it's not great quality.

>I'd suggest getting your washing machine repaired
Sounds advice, I just can't afford to get a plumber out, or a new washing machine. I don't think it's the washing machine that's at fault - I've watched it flushing at the end of a washing cycle and it's not any faster than a tap, it's just that the back pressure on the pipe makes it spit back up and out (I've run a few packs of descaler through the machine anyway and will be doing so regularly from now on, I guess). The whole place has problems with plumbing, I have to pour drain cleaner down both sinks and the bath every month or water starts backing up, and I'm not flushing coffee grinds etc down there, so I don't think I'm doing anything especially dumb to cause it. I've checked the accessible piping for blocks and there's nothing present. I do have a housemate but he's aware of the issues and has been told the do's and dont's so I doubt he's doing anything much to cause these problems.

Thanks for your advice, anyway - any further input appreciated, obviously I'm not an expert in any of this stuff.
>> No. 25859 Anonymous
28th February 2017
Tuesday 7:18 pm
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Can you share a photo of the plumbing underneath your sink? i.e. showing the drain hose from the machine, and the u-bend and everything it's connecting to? There's probably just a blockage further down in the system but there might be an obvious issue one of us can spot.

>> No. 25852 Anonymous
25th February 2017
Saturday 3:43 am
25852 Portz
What ports are those next to the HDMI and the DVI? Cheers meights
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>> No. 25853 Anonymous
25th February 2017
Saturday 3:52 am
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Display Ports
>> No. 25854 Anonymous
25th February 2017
Saturday 9:10 am
25854 spacer
Yeah, DisplayPort. Graphics card & monitor manufacturers are keen on it. You can get passive adaptors to single-link DVI and to HDMI if you need to, or active adaptors (read: adaptor actually has to have electronics in it, more expensive) to even VGA.

On its own, the port has roughly the same merits as HDMI. The standards are defined by vaguely competing organizations. You shouldn't worry too much about any of this unless you're buying a 4K/5K monitor and don't want to be stuck at 30fps max - if so, you'll want to read into the various versions of HDMI & what the graphics card supports to see if it can handle that amount of data.

Same nonsense applies with DisplayPort, although DP 1.0 is way faster than HDMI 1.0. But you can have longer HDMI cables generally than DP cables, because lower bandwidth ~= you can have longer cables before things stop working. Swings and roundabouts.
>> No. 25855 Anonymous
25th February 2017
Saturday 2:39 pm
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For Freesync/G-sync I think you need DP, so bear that in mind.

>> No. 24774 Anonymous
3rd November 2015
Tuesday 10:49 am
24774 New phone
So my Three contract (24m One Plan at £33.50pm) is finally bloody ending and I'd rather not keep paying for this lacklustre Galaxy S4. It's caused me more bother than good.

Do any of you chaps have recommendations for a more modern handset, perhaps on contract at a lesser price? Stock Android is a bonus. Expandable memory is a must.
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>> No. 25846 Anonymous
18th February 2017
Saturday 5:56 pm
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No mate, if you take millions more details plus mine, then is it okay. Better safe than sorry, right?
>> No. 25847 Anonymous
18th February 2017
Saturday 5:58 pm
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You know what they say. A journey of a million miles starts with a single step. Now hurry, before the Chinese get their hands on them, otherwise you'll be paying for all sorts of crazy fetish porn without even getting to see it.
>> No. 25848 Anonymous
18th February 2017
Saturday 6:33 pm
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No mate, you should do it all in one go, not one by one. Better safe than sorry.
>> No. 25850 Anonymous
19th February 2017
Sunday 2:11 am
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The only information I have been able to glean from this thread is that it is indubitably better to be safe than to be sorry.

A lesson well learned, thanks everyone.
>> No. 25851 Anonymous
19th February 2017
Sunday 2:22 am
25851 Build the wall

> it is indubitably better to be safe than to be sorry

>> No. 25849 Anonymous
18th February 2017
Saturday 10:10 pm
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I picked up a pair of these on a whim in a junk shop the other day, Pioneer SE-205s, for a shade under £3. They're in good nick, comfortable, built like a brick shit house, offer nice isolation and when properly driven have surprisingly good, clear bass response, much better than I'd expect from a set of headphones of their age (somewhere between '74 and '88). Unfortunately, while they're nice enough for classical, folk, jazz and so on, they get muddier as the source gets hotter; not great for anything much modern, and hopeless for metal, breakcore etc.

So I'm wondering, is studiolad still around, or any of the other audioheads that have graced these parts over the years, to offer a bit of advice? They're 70mm drivers (4Ω) so I'm thinking of trying to find a suitable "spare/repair" modern donor pair on ebay, but are there alternatives, like somewhere specialist online where I can just buy decent replacement drivers without them costing more than the project is worth? At ~£2.80 it's not like I'm particularly invested so far, and while I do like how solid the construction is on these, I'm not about to go cannibalising a better working set of headphones for that reason alone.

Ta lads. (I thought this was more /g/ than /beat/ on account of it being a hardware question, but will repost there if requested.)

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