If you have paid for them to install it then you should wait until they do it. They can't take your money for a service and then bugger off.

It may be that the clueless installation gimps aren't able to do anything more than wire it into an existing junction box. If the old installation's somehow weird, they won't want to get involved in a rewire of the whole damn kitchen...
What exactly did they say? Verbal's not really good enough, you want it in writing, if they're going to refuse to service you.

There's really not much to it - but if, say, the old wiring's undersized, or there's no ventilation path, or any of a number of things, then they may have been correct to weasel out.

>>477

It is not correct if they took the fucking money. That's theft.

Well, yeah. It was implied that they should give the money back... Hence weasel out, not rip him off. Still, if you want me to labour the point, do let me know.

In the end we just told them to fuck off and take it back and give me a refund.

the old oven is plugged in to large plug socket labled 'cooker'
will it simply be a case of putting a plug on the new cooker and plugging it in?

i just bought a new cooker from Tesco.

Double clubcard pints (Y)

thanks for the replies!

Also the Socket for the cooker has its own switch on the fuseboard and is wired in using rather flat but tough cable

im 99% certain its just a case of putting a plug on the new cooker.

also sorry for being a pain in the arse!

What current is the new cooker rated at? If it's more than 3KW, then that'll be the reason the gimps wouldn't install it. Domestic plugs are only rated at 13A/3KW.
(Is the socket completely normal? There's a similar, but beefier version that I think is good for 16A)

Also, what does tfm say? Always a good starting point...

Yes, it's very easy. However, I can't remember how. When you take the old one out, there should be three wires and it should be fairly plain to see which goes where, and work out what the corresponding connections on the new oven are.

I used to work for Comet - the office you'll ring to try and get a refund will be where I used to work. They're fucking shockingly bad. If you've still got the cooker don't try and install it because they WILL refuse to have anything to do with it ever again (and keep your delivery charge). Ring the Customer Support Centre (does service and delivery) and ask them to read the delivery notes to find out what exactly you are missing; make sure you ask them to read you word-for-word what's on the screen (apparently they've got to then - and you'll be surprised how rude the delivery drivers can be).
You can get the install refunded, or they'll defer the install for you until you've fixed whatever it is you need to fix. In theory. They are a bunch of incompetent shitbags, so expect to fight for this.
The cooker on the other hand you'll have less luck getting refunded (likely, they might be kind to you - the funny thing about Comet is there's no actual policy on what to do in cases like this, it's left entirely down to the whims of the service centre/CSC/store). If they're refusing to accept the cooker back (and it's unused) you'll need to go into the store and shout the odds til the manager gives you them back - the CSC isn't able to arrange that for you, the service centres often just don't, but stores have a bit of leeway in what they can and can't do.

Having said all this, you could be have said to have 'changed your mind' on the goods - which means you've no protection at all under the Sale Of Goods Act (do NOT quote this at the call centre person unless you're proficient in it, it never ever ever ends well) and therefore they're not entitled to give you anything back at all.

Good luck!

P.P.S. don't attempt to do the install yourself - one of the most amusing calls I ever had at the CSC was some woman railing at me about her husband being electrically-shocked and burned quite badly by a faulty Comet install, only to check the delivery notes and realise the husband had tried to put it in himself (the hero). You can, if you don't know what you're doing, end up injured or quite dead.

I always liked the distance selling regulations and protections provided by credit cards.

>>488
> there should be three wires and it should be fairly plain to see which goes where

Correct, however the usual warnings about dealing with currents apply two fold. Cooker connections aren't fused outside of the main switch box and cookers are likely the highest amperage device in your household, which means you do not want to do be doing a shoddy job. In particular, you want to be very careful about having the entire thing cleanly insulated. The connection will likely live near a wall and not see the light of day for a long time, but will gather a nice amount of grime and dust none the less; if you messed up the insulation, you're setting yourself up for a nice electrical fire a few months down the line.

>>494
Yeah. You need 6mm² cable at the very least and a seperately fused 30 amp switch for a cooker. If this is the OPs first go at electrickery, I would seriously give it a miss. Home electricals are fairly straightforward if you have been shown / know what you are doing, but there is no room for error here. Death/fire will happen.

>>496

Also make sure you have an earth. If not you will die.

>>494
Turn it off at the main switch then.

>>496
Oh lighten up, there is a fair amount of room for error. Not hugely forgiving if you cock up, but granted, if you do make a mess of it you'll be wanting to turn it off at the mains when you're not around to check that it's not smoking gently.

>>517
I don't think we disagree as much as you think we do. My point was that your average punter really does need to take extra special care because
> you'll be wanting to turn it off at the mains
they won't do that. Dealing with electrics at that scale requires an amount of care that "meh, it'll do" doesn't cover. It's not rocket science, but it's not building a sand castle either.

A while ago I was in spain on holidays with some friends.

Their oven was blowing up the fuses every time they switched it to a certain position (I think it was the upper grill).

Anyway, they wanted to buy a new oven. I asked to be given a chance at it (it was going to be thrown away anyway), disassembled it, and found that one of the connectors on the selector thingy was toasted. Went to the shop, got a new one for £10, put it on, and hey ho.

The maximum that can happen is that the fuses can blow up, OP. If it's a plug, make sure your new oven also has a plug. Otherwise, either open the old one and make your own plug from that one, or buy the materials from a shop. I think as standard they come "ready to go", but you either have to make the connexion in a box (i.e. no plug) or through a plug (i.e. plug in socket for profit).

Just make sure you switch off the mains.

Piss easy, I did it when I was I'm a lass and I did it when I was 15.

>>615

Pardon?