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>> No. 25862 Anonymous
10th April 2017
Monday 12:59 pm
25862 spacer
Hey friends.

So I own my own business and I want a more pro sounding email address than @gmail.com, I'd like a @businessname.co.uk how would I go about doing this?

Thanks meights.
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>> No. 25863 Anonymous
10th April 2017
Monday 2:03 pm
25863 spacer
The same way you signed up for Gmail, but this time chuck 'em a few quid each month.
>> No. 25864 Anonymous
10th April 2017
Monday 3:16 pm
25864 spacer
What's the business? Shouldn't you have a website anyway, in which case you could get the email server through your hosting provider?

water alarm.jpg
>> No. 25856 Anonymous
28th February 2017
Tuesday 12:10 am
25856 Water alarm
Right, so my washing machine is spitting out water and it's done a number on the contents of the shelf under the sink. I'm going to seal its output but I bought a water alarm to be put on the floor in case I fuck it up, or something else leaks; the plumbing isn't great here. It's got two small metal sensor pads on the bottom which do a good job of making a racket when I dip it into water.

I have a question about this thing, though. The microcontroller (?) seems to be open to the air, and in my case water has been spewing out the top of a pipe, so there's a good chance it'll get inside if this happens again. Why is it open, and is there any reason why I wouldn't put a bit of tape over the hole (pointed to by the arrow)?
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>> No. 25857 Anonymous
28th February 2017
Tuesday 2:27 am
25857 spacer
I can't really say without a much higher-resolution image. There's a fairly good chance that the circuit board has a conformal coating - a very thin layer of waterproof lacquer protecting the entire board. The gap in the case might be there for a reason, or the manufacturer might have just re-used a case from another product.

The case as a whole clearly isn't waterproof. Taping up the gaps might provide some protection from water, or it might trap moisture inside the device and accelerate the rate of corrosion.

Ultimately, I'd suggest getting your washing machine repaired rather than trying to mitigate the effects of the leak.
>> No. 25858 Anonymous
28th February 2017
Tuesday 9:42 am
25858 spacer

>There's a fairly good chance that the circuit board has a conformal coating - a very thin layer of waterproof lacquer protecting the entire board
Makes sense, I'll take the risk and leave it as-is. I can't see any lacquer, the top of the chip looks matte, whereas I'd expect it to look shiny if there was a lacquer layer on top, but honestly I'm not sure I'd know it if I saw it - attached an image of the chip anyway, but it's not great quality.

>I'd suggest getting your washing machine repaired
Sounds advice, I just can't afford to get a plumber out, or a new washing machine. I don't think it's the washing machine that's at fault - I've watched it flushing at the end of a washing cycle and it's not any faster than a tap, it's just that the back pressure on the pipe makes it spit back up and out (I've run a few packs of descaler through the machine anyway and will be doing so regularly from now on, I guess). The whole place has problems with plumbing, I have to pour drain cleaner down both sinks and the bath every month or water starts backing up, and I'm not flushing coffee grinds etc down there, so I don't think I'm doing anything especially dumb to cause it. I've checked the accessible piping for blocks and there's nothing present. I do have a housemate but he's aware of the issues and has been told the do's and dont's so I doubt he's doing anything much to cause these problems.

Thanks for your advice, anyway - any further input appreciated, obviously I'm not an expert in any of this stuff.
>> No. 25859 Anonymous
28th February 2017
Tuesday 7:18 pm
25859 spacer
Can you share a photo of the plumbing underneath your sink? i.e. showing the drain hose from the machine, and the u-bend and everything it's connecting to? There's probably just a blockage further down in the system but there might be an obvious issue one of us can spot.

>> No. 25852 Anonymous
25th February 2017
Saturday 3:43 am
25852 Portz
What ports are those next to the HDMI and the DVI? Cheers meights
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>> No. 25853 Anonymous
25th February 2017
Saturday 3:52 am
25853 spacer
Display Ports
>> No. 25854 Anonymous
25th February 2017
Saturday 9:10 am
25854 spacer
Yeah, DisplayPort. Graphics card & monitor manufacturers are keen on it. You can get passive adaptors to single-link DVI and to HDMI if you need to, or active adaptors (read: adaptor actually has to have electronics in it, more expensive) to even VGA.

On its own, the port has roughly the same merits as HDMI. The standards are defined by vaguely competing organizations. You shouldn't worry too much about any of this unless you're buying a 4K/5K monitor and don't want to be stuck at 30fps max - if so, you'll want to read into the various versions of HDMI & what the graphics card supports to see if it can handle that amount of data.

Same nonsense applies with DisplayPort, although DP 1.0 is way faster than HDMI 1.0. But you can have longer HDMI cables generally than DP cables, because lower bandwidth ~= you can have longer cables before things stop working. Swings and roundabouts.
>> No. 25855 Anonymous
25th February 2017
Saturday 2:39 pm
25855 spacer
For Freesync/G-sync I think you need DP, so bear that in mind.

>> No. 25849 Anonymous
18th February 2017
Saturday 10:10 pm
25849 spacer
I picked up a pair of these on a whim in a junk shop the other day, Pioneer SE-205s, for a shade under £3. They're in good nick, comfortable, built like a brick shit house, offer nice isolation and when properly driven have surprisingly good, clear bass response, much better than I'd expect from a set of headphones of their age (somewhere between '74 and '88). Unfortunately, while they're nice enough for classical, folk, jazz and so on, they get muddier as the source gets hotter; not great for anything much modern, and hopeless for metal, breakcore etc.

So I'm wondering, is studiolad still around, or any of the other audioheads that have graced these parts over the years, to offer a bit of advice? They're 70mm drivers (4Ω) so I'm thinking of trying to find a suitable "spare/repair" modern donor pair on ebay, but are there alternatives, like somewhere specialist online where I can just buy decent replacement drivers without them costing more than the project is worth? At ~£2.80 it's not like I'm particularly invested so far, and while I do like how solid the construction is on these, I'm not about to go cannibalising a better working set of headphones for that reason alone.

Ta lads. (I thought this was more /g/ than /beat/ on account of it being a hardware question, but will repost there if requested.)

Windows Photo Viewer Wallpaper.jpg
>> No. 25798 Anonymous
26th January 2017
Thursday 11:04 pm
25798 spacer
Anyone know of a free ithumb to jpg converter for windows?
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>> No. 25799 Anonymous
26th January 2017
Thursday 11:12 pm
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I'm no expert, but after a rudimentary Googling, try xnview?

>> No. 25800 Anonymous
27th January 2017
Friday 11:20 pm
25800 spacer

Nah, it don't work.
>> No. 25801 Anonymous
28th January 2017
Saturday 12:01 am
25801 spacer
Did you try this?

>> No. 25775 Anonymous
2nd January 2017
Monday 11:56 am
25775 spacer
Recommend me a decent PC microphone that costs about a tenner. When I get one I'll upload a recording of my deep sexy voice for you all.
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>> No. 25778 Anonymous
2nd January 2017
Monday 5:42 pm
25778 spacer

All computer-based audio has some amount of latency, due to the conversion from analogue to digital and back. An analogue microphone plugged into an ordinary soundcard is likely to have particularly high latency, because soundcards aren't optimised for recording applications. Windows isn't really designed for low-latency audio, so you need to use special ASIO drivers and compatible software to achieve un-noticeably low latency with either a USB microphone or a dedicated audio interface.
>> No. 25779 Anonymous
2nd January 2017
Monday 5:45 pm
25779 spacer
I'll add:

Whatever the application you're using the microphone for, you can make a massive improvement to the quality of the recording, just using a few improvised tricks like stockings over a clothes hanger to make a pop-shield, and some towels hung behind you to deaden echoes.
>> No. 25780 Anonymous
2nd January 2017
Monday 5:51 pm
25780 spacer
>I think you might have to pop down Maplins and just buy whatever cheapest mic they have and hope it's good.

Ok thanks, will do.
>> No. 25796 Anonymous
25th January 2017
Wednesday 8:05 pm
25796 OP
Well, I got one off ebay for 6 quid. It works well enough but my voice has gone bad so you'll have to wait a few days to hear my deep sexy tones.
>> No. 25797 Anonymous
26th January 2017
Thursday 5:59 pm
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My curiosity is genuinely piqued at this point. No, I don't know why either.

>> No. 25781 Anonymous
19th January 2017
Thursday 12:57 pm
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I want to replace my 2 250GB SATA drives with a single 500GB drive. They're connected to the same SATA card and are in a RAID stripe set up. Can I just plug a single 500GB drive in instead?
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>> No. 25790 Anonymous
19th January 2017
Thursday 5:22 pm
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Yes because in saying that, you do realise its going to now be half the speed. Effectively you are downgrading.
>> No. 25791 Anonymous
19th January 2017
Thursday 5:57 pm
25791 spacer

It's OK, the new one I'm looking at is twice as fast.
>> No. 25793 Anonymous
21st January 2017
Saturday 2:22 pm
25793 OP
Got it working. I just had to tweak the BIOS a bit.
>> No. 25794 Anonymous
21st January 2017
Saturday 3:52 pm
25794 spacer
If its striped it'll still only be reading/writing to a single disk at any given time so the speed difference would be negligible.
>> No. 25795 Anonymous
21st January 2017
Saturday 5:45 pm
25795 spacer

It's scarcely worth debating the speed of spinning rust drives, as they're all pitifully slow. Hard drives are fine for archival storage, but you'd have to be bonkers to use one as a working drive. A basic 120gb SSD costs well under £50 these days.

advance technology product.jpg
>> No. 25759 Anonymous
21st December 2016
Wednesday 9:20 pm
25759 Smart TV doohickey wotsit dongle thread
What have been other peoples experiences in the area of smart TVs, dongles, kodi boxes etc.? I'd welcome suggestions relevant to my needs, but feel free to talk about anything relating to these products in general.

Having been without a TV for quite a few years now, I might finally give in and buy one in January.
My intention is to get a "dumb" TV, and a smart dongle or box to go with it. It seems a more versatile and future-proof option than paying £60 extra for a nearly identical screen with some locked-down firmware.

For the little I expect to use it, I'm mainly looking for something in the £30-50 range. I don't want the amazon fire stick because it exists mainly to drive you towards paid content. I'd prefer the Roku or chromecast in that respect.
The other option for the amount I want to spend is one of the many android-based chinese sticks or boxes. Anyone had any luck with getting one that works largely as described? I have reservations about the ones that are on the market with the dodgy piracy-enabled/"fully-loaded" Kodi apps, but anyone here have experience with them?

(Also regarding the Roku, a lot of sellers seem to have large stocks of the older model, even though the latest version with a much better processor has been out since last spring.)
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>> No. 25764 Anonymous
22nd December 2016
Thursday 8:49 pm
25764 spacer
Oh well, I've wasted 40 quid on a chinese box and a wireless keyboard so I'll see what happens.
>> No. 25765 Anonymous
22nd December 2016
Thursday 8:52 pm
25765 spacer

It'll be a minor ballache to set up, but once you've figured it out you'll be able to watch 3pm football and films that aren't even out yet. Bargain.
>> No. 25766 Anonymous
22nd December 2016
Thursday 8:58 pm
25766 spacer
I'd agree if we were talking about computer monitors, or if you're looking for a TV to use mostly for gaming. But in general, you have to fit the size of the telly to the size and layout of the room - I'm not going to move the telly in my lounge into the middle of the room so that it's closer to the sofas because that would be impractical with the wires and waste a lot of space.
>> No. 25767 Anonymous
24th December 2016
Saturday 11:08 pm
25767 spacer
How the fuck do I turn off my amazon prime fire stick thing.
>> No. 25768 Anonymous
24th December 2016
Saturday 11:13 pm
25768 spacer

Inside the flat a fruity voice was reading out a list of figures which had something to do with the production of macbooks. The voice came from an oblong metal plaque like a dulled mirror which formed part of the surface of the right-hand wall. Winston turned a switch and the voice sank somewhat, though the words were still distinguishable. The instrument (the telescreen, it was called) could be dimmed, but there was no way of shutting it off completely.

>> No. 25671 Anonymous
15th November 2016
Tuesday 10:07 am
25671 iPod alternatives
Do you any of you use a portable media player for music listening that isn't your phone? There are many reasons that I need to move away from my ancient 160GB iPod classic, does anyone have any direct experience of alternative players they'd recommend?

Pic taken from a site called "anythingbutipod" which seemed fitting.
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>> No. 25692 Anonymous
16th November 2016
Wednesday 5:00 am
25692 spacer

>Wasn't there some liar lad on here recently saying that the Chinese were coming out with affordable 1Tb NAND storage any time now?

> Even at commodity prices, the cheapest TLC NAND costs about £200/TB. You can buy a near-flagship phone and a 128gb MicroSD card for less than that.



This is the twonk who spelled could as 'culd' ffs I was referring to. Make your own mind up, laddo.
>> No. 25755 Anonymous
17th December 2016
Saturday 11:01 am
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>> No. 25756 Anonymous
17th December 2016
Saturday 11:33 am
25756 spacer
We already have 1Tb cards, you can buy them as 128GB.

The point I am making is that B and b are different, as anyone who has internet should know.
>> No. 25757 Anonymous
18th December 2016
Sunday 12:51 am
25757 spacer
That bit / byte misrepresentation with broadband speeds on adverts is such a pricktease.

Although, not as bad as getting confused between 1 mm and 1 Mm.
>> No. 25758 Anonymous
18th December 2016
Sunday 3:51 am
25758 spacer

Typos are an arsehole, however I am the cunt who picked up a 1Tb Victorinox flashdrive for 15 quid.

Sage checked.

>> No. 25643 Anonymous
13th November 2016
Sunday 3:47 am
25643 spacer
Alright lads, I'm looking for a new laptop as my current one is dying on its arse. Basically I'm looking for something lightweight and small since I travel a lot, but something I can still run some games on in my downtime. I'm in the US at the moment too so my maximum price range is $1200, so I was thinking of picking up the new Alienware 13, which for $1200 gets me this:

Intel® Core™ i5-6300HQ
Windows 10 Home 64bit English
8GB DDR4 at 2133MHz
NVIDIA® GeForce® GTX 1060 with 6GB GDDR5

Apparently it's VR ready too but I'm not too bothered about that. For roughly the same price I can get a slight older model but the specs are: Core i7 6500U (2.50 GHz) 16 GB Memory 256 GB SSD NVIDIA GeForce GTX 960M 2 GB GDDR5

I figure I might as well go for the newer one but if I could find something decent for cheaper that'd be great. I've looked around for others but haven't found much though, so I'm just wondering if anyone can give their input on this or give me some ideas on other models. The main focus I suppose is going to be gaming, and I figure anything that can run some decent games will allow me to do a little bit of video editing and run Office too, as well as streaming the occasional movie.
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>> No. 25750 Anonymous
15th December 2016
Thursday 8:20 am
25750 spacer
Yep. W540
>> No. 25751 Anonymous
15th December 2016
Thursday 8:32 am
25751 spacer
You can almost certainly reprogram or replace the bios chip.
>> No. 25752 Anonymous
15th December 2016
Thursday 11:46 am
25752 spacer
Hmm, looks promising, thanks.
>> No. 25753 Anonymous
15th December 2016
Thursday 5:15 pm
25753 spacer
I will give this a try, thanks for the informative post. My only fear is like what happened to >>25748 getting stuck with a bad deal and having to mess about sending it back or trying to fix it.

Are there some general tips to avoid the hassle? I suppose when using ebay its just a case of checking the seller reputation and not dwelling too much on bad luck.
>> No. 25754 Anonymous
15th December 2016
Thursday 6:18 pm
25754 spacer

>Are there some general tips to avoid the hassle?

Buy from a large, professional refurbisher that offers a full warranty. I've bought a lot of kit from this kind of outfit and they've been no bother at all. Look for the "eBay Premium Service" badge - these sellers get discounted fees and preferential placement in search results, but they have to maintain extremely high levels of customer satisfaction.

Look for listings that include a phone number, a VAT number, an address that's a proper commercial premises. Look for a full and accurate description, with an explanation of their product grading. Ask a question before you buy - the promptness and quality of the reply will tell you a lot about the seller.

Here's an example of a confidence-inspiring listing from a real business:


Versus a shit listing from someone who's obviously selling stuff out of their garage:


>> No. 25741 Anonymous
12th December 2016
Monday 2:56 pm
25741 RetroPie
Has anyone played with RetroPie?

I'm thinking of buying a RaspberryPi for someone for Xmas - to be able to run this well I would obviously need some ROMs. Where is the best place to procure such on the inter webs?
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>> No. 25742 Anonymous
12th December 2016
Monday 3:14 pm
25742 spacer
Pirate bay
>> No. 25743 Anonymous
13th December 2016
Tuesday 7:37 am
25743 spacer
emu paradise

>> No. 25736 Anonymous
9th December 2016
Friday 9:13 pm
25736 spacer
So lads, a USB stick. 32GB or so, don't really care, I just want one with a decent write speed. I've looked on Amazon and even the Amazon-bought Sandisk drives seem to be counterfeit and have shitty write speeds according to the reviews, I haven't even bothered with ebay as I know they'll be repackaged shite.

Anyone got a tip for a legit, fast USB stick? It shouldn't be this difficult.
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>> No. 25737 Anonymous
9th December 2016
Friday 9:43 pm
25737 spacer
The problem with Amazon is that the "sold by Amazon" and "fulfilled by Amazon" products go on the same shelf in the warehouse. There's no separation of stock, so it just takes one dodgy third-party seller to fuck it up for everyone.

Tesco are doing a Sandisk Extreme 64GB stick for £22 with free delivery. I take it that a sequential write speed of 190MB/s counts as "decent"?

>> No. 25739 Anonymous
9th December 2016
Friday 11:15 pm
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I would never have thought of Tesco, of all places. That's perfect, cheers mate.
>> No. 25740 Anonymous
10th December 2016
Saturday 6:59 am
25740 spacer
Every little helps.

>> No. 25730 Anonymous
9th December 2016
Friday 2:03 am
25730 spacer
Is there a better way of writing a generic curry function maker in js than this?

function curry(fn, presets) { return function() { return fn.apply(null, presets.slice(0).concat([].slice.call(arguments, 0))); }; }

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>> No. 25731 Anonymous
9th December 2016
Friday 2:05 am
25731 spacer
Here it is in action!

function addThreeNums(a, b, c) { return a + b + c; } var addOneTwo = curry(addThreeNums, [1, 2]); console.log(addOneTwo(3)); // 6

>> No. 25733 Anonymous
9th December 2016
Friday 2:21 am
25733 spacer

Yeah, like this. You don't need the first slice.

function curry(fn, presets) { return function() { return fn.apply(null, presets.concat([].slice.call(arguments, 0))); }; }

>> No. 25734 Anonymous
9th December 2016
Friday 2:25 am
25734 spacer
function curry(fn, presets, binding) { return function() { return fn.apply(binding, presets.concat([].slice.call(arguments, 0))); }; }

>> No. 25735 Anonymous
9th December 2016
Friday 4:22 am
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>> No. 25724 Anonymous
3rd December 2016
Saturday 1:49 pm
25724 Lattepanda
Are these any good?
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>> No. 25725 Anonymous
3rd December 2016
Saturday 2:04 pm
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Looks interesting, tell us more.
>> No. 25726 Anonymous
3rd December 2016
Saturday 2:39 pm
25726 spacer
Not the OP, but I've heard a little about these before.
Same basic principle as the raspberry pi, but with an x86 chip capable of running windows, and with an onboard arduino.
>> No. 25727 Anonymous
3rd December 2016
Saturday 2:40 pm
25727 spacer
Lattepanda single-board computer running Windows 10. I am building a pocket computer and looking for something closer to a real motherboard than a Raspberry PI. Would appreciate input from people that have used one before.
>> No. 25728 Anonymous
3rd December 2016
Saturday 2:45 pm
25728 spacer
They're fairly new and I don't think there's that many people around with experience of them yet. You might be better off looking towards the makerspace community for advice.

Are you building this to make practical use out of it, or just for the sake of building it? If it's the former, it might be worth looking at the GPD handhelds:

>> No. 25729 Anonymous
3rd December 2016
Saturday 3:08 pm
25729 spacer
Thanks. I was not aware of that, for some reason. Something like the Pandora could be perfect, depending on the specs.

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