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>> No. 2892 Anonymous
16th February 2021
Tuesday 11:42 am
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Will a 7.5W LED bulb in a 7W lamp/fixture cause problems?

The difference is small but I don't want to start a housefire.
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>> No. 2893 Anonymous
16th February 2021
Tuesday 12:14 pm
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>>2892
It will be fine.
>> No. 2894 Anonymous
16th February 2021
Tuesday 4:13 pm
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>> No. 2895 Anonymous
16th February 2021
Tuesday 5:42 pm
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>>2894

The house was already on fire before replacing the bulb so it would appear that it is in fact fine according to the logic of this comic.
>> No. 2896 Anonymous
16th February 2021
Tuesday 5:43 pm
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Lamp fitting wattages used to be important in the days of incandescent bulbs which put out a shitton of heat. If you put a 100w bulb in a 60w lamp, it would get very toasty in there and possibly melt or catch fire.

With LEDs its a bit more complicated. If you've got a lamp with a separate transformer putting out 12vdc, going over the W rating could end up burning out the transformer.

But I'm guessing this is probably a mains powered lamp you've got, in which case it's hard to give a good answer as the efficiency and heat output of different types of LED bulbs varies hugely. I would say that as long as the lamp is fairly open with space for air to circulate around the bulb then there should be no problem with it.

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>> No. 2878 Anonymous
13th February 2021
Saturday 1:54 pm
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I want to make an electronic switch to turn another 9V current on and off. What components do I need?
7 posts omitted. Expand all images.
>> No. 2886 Anonymous
13th February 2021
Saturday 9:41 pm
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>>2881
Watch battery won't run a relay (for very long, or at all). MOSFET or just putting your switch in the right place are sensible options.
That's assuming you're not just copying stuff from t'other place for some demented reason.
>> No. 2888 Anonymous
14th February 2021
Sunday 7:13 pm
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If you're the lad from >>2882 then this should work.
But before you go modding the doorbell check the button isn't knackered and that the connections aren't loose or corroded.
>> No. 2889 Anonymous
14th February 2021
Sunday 9:38 pm
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Why would you take the switch connection from the low (switched) side of the solenoid? Are you trying to build an oscillator this way, to make the bell ring?
Rule 3 of electronics: Amplifiers oscillate, oscillators don't.
At least be prepared to put a capacitor between B & E , and even then, be prepared for the bastard thing to just fins a bias point and sit there burning power in the transistor until it fails.
>> No. 2890 Anonymous
15th February 2021
Monday 2:41 am
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>>2889
Because it's less of a pain in the arse to wire it that way when you take into account the physical construction of the doorbell and the existing wiring, and because it's a doorbell not a finely tuned SMPS.
Even if there's enough capacitative coupling in the cable to cause it to oscillate it should act as a charge pump via the B->E junction of Q1 until the base voltage gets pushed far enough below the switch on threshold to kill any oscillations.

sage because the proper answer is to replace the button and/or cable rather than mod the doorbell to work for a bit longer with failing wiring.
>> No. 2891 Anonymous
15th February 2021
Monday 5:23 pm
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>>2890
The joy of electronics is that it doesn't give a damn if you're trying to build something trivial, the same rules still apply.
I think you should reduce R1 (possibly to zero), or you'll be pissing away volts across, and power into, the transistor. You want the transistor on hard. As it turns on, the voltage available through the switch will drop, as more volts appear across L1. No need for a current limiting resistor on the base, by the time the transistor is on enough to pull the bottom of the inductor to 0.6V or so, it'll all self-limit.
Bear in mind also that 9V batteries are shit. Alkalines start out at 10Ohms, end up at 1K. Make sure your doorbell solenoid won't just drain it in a couple of uses. A battery holder with 6 C cells has vastly better performance if you can find the space. (or 4 C cells, given that the pp3 will be wilting pretty much from the start).

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>> No. 2873 Anonymous
12th February 2021
Friday 6:06 pm
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When carrying some furniture through to the garden, I left a ding in my stainless steel fridge-freezer door just a few mm in diameter. My girlfriend says no sane person would notice it and not to worry, but I hate causing damage and not at least trying to fix it, and it is visible from a very low angle. I'd estimate it to be 3mm - 5mm and not maybe 1mm depth at the deepest point.

What could pull out a tiny dent like this? The other side isn't accessible to pop it out. I have a feeling a standard toilet plunger would be too large to target the dent.

Would heat work, with the consideration that there's a freezer going on the other side?

I'd obviously prefer not to spend money on an expensive gizmo or cause more damage.
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>> No. 2874 Anonymous
12th February 2021
Friday 6:09 pm
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>a standard toilet plunger would be too large
Glue a cocktail stick to one of these jumping toy things.
>> No. 2875 Anonymous
12th February 2021
Friday 7:01 pm
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Small dents like that are really tricky to pull, because there's less surface area and more plastic deformation. Your best chance is with a PDR tool (about a tenner from AliExpress). You could try just buying the puller tabs and yanking on it with a pair of pliers, which should only cost you a couple of quid.
>> No. 2876 Anonymous
12th February 2021
Friday 9:20 pm
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Hot melt glue a stick to it. Pull and wiggle.
There's only a 50% chance you'll make it worse.
>> No. 2877 Anonymous
13th February 2021
Saturday 12:58 pm
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>>2875

Thanks, I picked up a PDR tool and might try a bit of heating and cooling first for a wiggle, as well. I'll report back the result if I remember.

I'll take >>2876 as an emergency backup option, and >>2874 as something to do if I ever find myself bored and on a desert island with these exact items and a sheet of dented steel.
>> No. 2887 Anonymous
13th February 2021
Saturday 9:44 pm
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>>2874
for what it's worth, don't stick these to your forehead unless you want a perfectly round hickey. Same goes for halved tennis balls. Younger me was daft.

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>> No. 2864 Anonymous
10th February 2021
Wednesday 6:27 pm
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Lads. Something happened to two of the carpet tiles in my current flat, and I'd like to replace them rather than lose my deposit. I carefully took one up and found no manufacturer identification, just the number '50718' printed on the back. Googling "50718" "carpet tile" gets me sweet fuck all.

I'd rather not alert the landlord of this, so before I go asking for new carpet tiles from them, can anyone help me ID this?

Thanks lads. Thads.
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>> No. 2868 Anonymous
10th February 2021
Wednesday 8:58 pm
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>Something happened to two of the carpet tiles in my current flat,

Care to elaborate?
>> No. 2869 Anonymous
10th February 2021
Wednesday 9:28 pm
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>>2868
I don't know exactly, but my best guess is my office chair wheel got stuck and tore a chunk of the threading out. Either way, there's inch-wide black patch of missing carpet. Unfotunately that was right on the boundary of two tiles.
>> No. 2870 Anonymous
10th February 2021
Wednesday 9:39 pm
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>>2869
Fair enough. To be honest I think I was hoping for some sort of amusing and elaborate wanking/shitting/murder incident or something. I hope you get it sorted anyways ladm8.
>> No. 2871 Anonymous
10th February 2021
Wednesday 9:47 pm
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>>2870
My bad. I realise on second reading that my OP makes it sound quite intriguing when in reality it was just because I don't know what happened.
>> No. 2872 Anonymous
10th February 2021
Wednesday 10:08 pm
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>>2870
I was imagining he had set them on fire.

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>> No. 2845 Anonymous
29th January 2021
Friday 12:47 pm
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I'm interested in buying this but it says it must be fixed to the wall, no fittings included.

How dangerous would it be without being fixed to the wall?
How would I fix it the wall?

https://www.aldi.co.uk/workzone-4-tier-resin-shelving/p/803362435518400
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>> No. 2859 Anonymous
29th January 2021
Friday 8:54 pm
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>>2858

>I haven't used the Gripit fixings, but they do look reasonably foolproof to be fair.

I would say they are, but I have loads of DIY experience so it's hard to really be sure. The stud is always, always a better option, particularly with a desk. The bigger Gripits (blue) can hold 120kgish per fixing, but I still wouldn't be sure what would happen if you sat on a desk held up by them, there's leverage then. Or shagged on it, I don't know what otherlad does.
>> No. 2860 Anonymous
31st January 2021
Sunday 12:17 am
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The desk weighs 19kg lads, I can barely lift it myself - I'm just not confident of the plasterboard wall taking the weight regardless of the fixing. I'll investigate finding the studs (joists?) with magnets.
>> No. 2861 Anonymous
31st January 2021
Sunday 12:50 am
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>>2860

They definitely would hold, but I do understand your scepticism. The stud is always the first port of call, regardless.
>> No. 2862 Anonymous
31st January 2021
Sunday 1:52 am
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It must be fixed to a sturdy wall (not just screwed into dry wall without anchors) if you want it to be solid, but if can be sure no toddler will try to climb it and you follow above given advice about heavy at the bottom, light at the top you'll be ok. Pretend its Jenga and the damn thing wants to topple over, basically.

Also bear in mind that, when fixed to a wall, there'll be little flex in the structure. When that's absent, it can flex however it wants. Even if you keep your lead bar collection on the bottom shelf, you still can't use the top shelf to store heavy things because the structure is a bit flimsy.
>> No. 2863 Anonymous
31st January 2021
Sunday 1:31 pm
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This thread is making me wonder why you don't just buy a cheap flatpack. A steel and plastic combo would likely be more sturdy than what you're looking at, and can be found for a tenner (without delivery): https://www.ikea.com/gb/en/p/hyllis-shelving-unit-in-outdoor-00278578/

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>> No. 2835 Anonymous
21st January 2021
Thursday 12:41 pm
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What's the trick to getting a bedframe that won't fall to bits after a few years? I'm quite 'heavy arsed' and a giant so breaking beds is something I do. Low-beds are maybe one solution but there are a host of reasons why people don't sleep on the floor.

I'm specifically annoyed with the problems slats can give. Big Bear knows full well that slats break, bend or, in the case of metal, will just come off the frame.
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>> No. 2840 Anonymous
21st January 2021
Thursday 3:18 pm
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>>2839
PotY nominee.
>> No. 2841 Anonymous
21st January 2021
Thursday 11:09 pm
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It doesn't have to be nearly a grand as >>2838 mentions, but a good bed costs money. You can build your own if you're handy around wood, but if you're buying one anything which comes as a kit with fancy nuts and bolts to screw it together is, very likely, a bunch of tosh. The metal frame shown in the picture, for example, looks exactly like the kind of trim you find on a tube framed bit of cheapo nonesense.

If you don't want to go DIY, find a (semi-)local bed maker and get something that's made of squares and screws together with plain wood screws. Then apply >>2839 and reinforce it; the entire bed should, if at all, move and flex as a single unit. Any play in the component parts will get stressed incessantly as you toss and turn during sleep. When reinforcing, bear in mind that you put more pressure on the bed around your hips and mid-torso than your head or feet both when sleeping in it and when falling into bed or sitting down/up on it, so the centre area is particularly important to reinforce.

I'm no Big Bear at *mumble* over 15st, but even I learned that slats are wear parts. It does depend on your mattress and how well it spreads your weight across them but having a half dozen or so spare at all times is a god sent. Check your bed every 3 months or so to replace slats that appear less than perfect. You can even do a rotation, move slats from near the end of your bed towards the centre and get some more use out of the centre ones near your feet for example.
>> No. 2842 Anonymous
22nd January 2021
Friday 8:19 am
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Just get a hammock.
>> No. 2843 Anonymous
22nd January 2021
Friday 1:40 pm
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>>2842
Or a waterbed. I have bloody lovely memories of staying over on a waterbed years ago, and prices seem to have dropped since I wanted one but couldn't possibly afford it. Or maybe I'm just less strapped. Either way, go try a waterbed.
>> No. 2844 Anonymous
22nd January 2021
Friday 5:18 pm
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>>2843

What do you do when you have to move a waterbed? Like run a hose into a bath or something? What if the bath is higher up than the bed?

Lots of questions.

Also if a waterbed springs a leak coz you're bouncing around with a fat lass or whatever you're proper fucked.

I remember sleeping on a waterbed when I was a young lad, it was alright I think. Sage for waterbed fraff chat.

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>> No. 2827 Anonymous
16th November 2020
Monday 11:38 pm
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https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_screw_drives

What's the best type of screw drive? In a perfect world, what would be the most common type?

Slotted, Philips, and Pozidrive are all obviously shite. Hex isn't great either. Square/Robertson heads seem like the best bet to me.
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>> No. 2830 Anonymous
17th November 2020
Tuesday 1:52 am
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Torx is close to mathematically optimal. The only real down-side is that a) it's quite hard to distinguish the sizes by eye and b) it's quite easy to chew up a screw head by using an under-sized bit. It's perfect for manufacturing, but slightly annoying during servicing and repair.

I've probably had the least grief with internal hex, but it's not suitable for a lot of applications due to size constraints. External hex is still probably the best option for tough environments subject to abrasion or corrosion, but those buggers owe me a lot of knuckle skin.

"Cross-head" is an absolute shit-show, because there are so many almost-compatible standards.

Pentalobe can fuck off. Tri-point can fuck off, come back and then fuck off again.

My favourite is the Pitlock, which is the only removable security bolt I've used that is actually secure. Totally niche, but invaluable if you need it.
>> No. 2831 Anonymous
17th November 2020
Tuesday 2:46 am
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>>2827
Naruto really went too far with the whole Sharingan business
>> No. 2832 Anonymous
17th November 2020
Tuesday 5:46 am
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Internal hex for countersunk, external for when you really mean it. Though I think this is just an admission that I prefer bolts, but that's a whole other discussion.

I'll admit I've had limited strife with posidrive, I've rounded maybe two in the last decade, and I interact with them almost daily.

I think we can all agree slotted is a joke - I curse whatever backwards farmer built my house every time I find one.
>> No. 2833 Anonymous
17th November 2020
Tuesday 5:50 am
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>>2832

I should qualify that I accept that many other solutions may be technically better, but the availability of specialist bits is a huge letdown for me. You can't really bodge a torx like you can a posi/phillips or slotted, and fiddling with often fragile driver bits is a real turn off - ironically any sort of torque applied through a torx bit will snap the bit easily. Maybe I could just buy more expensive torx bits, but fuck you - I've never once snapped a Philips bit.
>> No. 2834 Anonymous
17th November 2020
Tuesday 8:16 am
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>>2832

>I think we can all agree slotted is a joke - I curse whatever backwards farmer built my house every time I find one.

They're fine if you drive them by hand and you use a proper hollow-ground screwdriver. In any other case they're absolutely fucking awful.

>I've never once snapped a Philips bit

Aye, but I bet you've rounded off plenty of the fuckers. There's a reason why they sell massive bulk boxes of PH2/PZ2 bits.

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>> No. 2823 Anonymous
8th November 2020
Sunday 8:06 pm
2823 Outdoor heating
Any recommendations? I figure NYE may end up being locked down and then there'll be the rest of winter to sit though, may as well invest in something to keep warm out.
I'm open to high tech stuff or some sort of firepit, anything that works.
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>> No. 2824 Anonymous
8th November 2020
Sunday 8:52 pm
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But what about the climate!.
>> No. 2825 Anonymous
8th November 2020
Sunday 8:55 pm
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>>2824
I hear you saying I should nick one from a pub to save on construction costs and to balance out one that would otherwise be running more often.
>> No. 2826 Anonymous
8th November 2020
Sunday 10:04 pm
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In my experience those gas fireplace things work best. You know, like your nan used to have with the three ceramic panels, but on wheels. They kick out more heat than leccy ones and they're not as bad for emissions as just burning wood.

I think they make portable camping ones, I've seen it on that YouTube channel where that madlad Canadian fella sleeps in the back of rental vans for a laugh.

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>> No. 2809 Anonymous
11th October 2020
Sunday 5:33 pm
2809 power tools
I often dither over buying power tools, because I worry about how much they cost, and how many times I'll actually use it. Often though, one comes along which saves me so much time, even for a "quick" job, that the manual version makes no sense whatsoever anymore.

I like to use old fire doors to make desks - I have other wooden desks and shelves that in the past I have sanded by hand, but today I took delivery of a random orbital sander - LIFE CHANGING. I'm never manually sanding a worktop or shelf ever again.

Everyone should have a decent drill at least - whats your (new) favourite power tool?
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>> No. 2818 Anonymous
13th October 2020
Tuesday 6:41 pm
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>>2817

I have a chunky one, like you say, about a small drill - actually probably closer to a hot glue gun in size than anything else. The one I have is quite nice and is powerful enough to pull dodgy old screws out of hardwood and such, and it can take some bolts out too if they haven't been too torqued.

I like the idea of the ones you mention (I think I first saw them talked about here actually), but worry that it might struggle to deal with some of the more robust applications. If I spent all day doing electronics stuff I'd be all over the Wowstick, though.
>> No. 2819 Anonymous
13th October 2020
Tuesday 6:59 pm
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Probably a bit basic but I really enjoy using the skillsaw. It makes big things into many smaller things. Bzzzt.
>> No. 2820 Anonymous
13th October 2020
Tuesday 7:59 pm
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>>2818
>If I spent all day doing electronics stuff I'd be all over the Wowstick, though.

I do. You're right, I need one right now. Thank you!!
>> No. 2821 Anonymous
13th October 2020
Tuesday 10:15 pm
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>>2819
>It makes big things into many smaller things. Bzzzt.

If we're getting into the territory of things fun to use then I can recommend a portable vacuum cleaner that is shaped like and sounds like a raygun. Probably only powerful enough for cleaning the keyboard but I had to put it away to stop myself from playing with it.
>> No. 2822 Anonymous
14th October 2020
Wednesday 1:07 pm
2822 spacer
>>2820
Mate, I'm having one too. Only worry is if it will have enough torque for handling over-tight screws.
>>2817
Hope you enjoy your commission from BIG WOWSTICK

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>> No. 2805 Anonymous
22nd September 2020
Tuesday 5:07 pm
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I broke a glass shelf in my shower. Most of it is in tact, and it broke only in the corner where it attaches to the shower frame.

Is there a heavy duty adhesive that can reliably attach glass to glass and/or glass to metal in a wet environment?

If not, is there any other way I can secure the shelf back into the frame?

It's similar to the picture, except with just one large metal piece in the corner.
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>> No. 2806 Anonymous
22nd September 2020
Tuesday 5:24 pm
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Most of it is in what?

If there's a large enough surface area you might try silicone; seems to work well enough on broken fish tanks.
>> No. 2807 Anonymous
22nd September 2020
Tuesday 6:18 pm
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Epoxy will bond to glass if the bonding surface is clean and degreased. Fast epoxy adhesives tend to be piss yellow, but you can find water-clear epoxies if you shop around.

Super glue (cyanoacrylate) will bond to glass, but the bond tends to be weak unless you use an acid etch pre-treatment.

Also, if we're discussing gluing glass I am legally obliged to reference Big Frank.


>> No. 2808 Anonymous
22nd September 2020
Tuesday 11:25 pm
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Fixing glass like this hardly ever works in my experience.

B&Q, Amazon or IKEA is your friend, I would just replace, it will be cheap for a shelf that small and easier than fucking about with different glues; I would forever be worrying about any fix breaking again while I was in the shower.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Bathroom-Tempered-8MM-Thick-Triangular-BGS3100/dp/B00PEHM8M2/

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>> No. 2777 Anonymous
14th September 2020
Monday 9:48 pm
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ladm8s I need to up my tool storage game.

My tool collection ever expands by the month, as is correct and normal - I have gotten by over the years on many different sizes and shapes of plastic boxes, mostly themed around each kind of tool/task (one for electronics, one for electrical, a separate one for cabling obviously, one for cars/bikes, one for decorating and building etc) and will probably continue in that vein when I need portability. But the main workshop/garage needs something a bit more substantial.

I am considering one of these trolleys with lots of drawers, there are many on the market, and I know you two will have researched this and bought the right thing. Please help. I need something roughly like this pictured, that is large, sturdy and isn't a zillion pounds.

What did you buy?
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>> No. 2800 Anonymous
21st September 2020
Monday 6:22 pm
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It's irrelevant since it's now ILLEGAL to go to Costco, but I noticed they're cheaper than they used to be. They're also listed as sold out on the website - does this mean they've stopped making them? If so I'm definitely going to have to panic buy a set.
>> No. 2801 Anonymous
21st September 2020
Monday 6:47 pm
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>>2800
I saw they were down to one set at my local one when I went yesterday, but the price was still the same.

I opened and closed all the drawers approvingly. It's a shame, the bottom half of the set would suit me down to the ground, a bit like that pictured in >>2799
>> No. 2802 Anonymous
21st September 2020
Monday 7:24 pm
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>>2801

Machine Mart have got similar-ish cabinets at similar-ish prices.

https://www.machinemart.co.uk/c/new-tool-chests-and-cabinets/
>> No. 2803 Anonymous
21st September 2020
Monday 7:41 pm
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>>2800
I need to do a Costco run, but every time I've been past it recently they've been queueing for miles.
>> No. 2804 Anonymous
22nd September 2020
Tuesday 1:28 am
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>>2803

My local one is still reasonable during the middle of a weekday, or at about 7pm just before closing. But I live in the northern tundra, so who knows.

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>> No. 2761 Anonymous
5th September 2020
Saturday 1:16 pm
2761 Elementary water Lego
Alright lads?

My toilet keeps running and no, I'm not going to catch it. All the tutorials I've looked up don't have this model of valves / sheaths and to make matters worse I can't seem to actually get at the interior components to check the flapper and adjust the float.

Any of you lot familiar with this odd set-up and how to fix it? No parts numbers or owt so I'd be Googling forever it seems.
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>> No. 2772 Anonymous
6th September 2020
Sunday 10:15 pm
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>>2771
Now this one looks a lot gunkier than the OP - so I would suggest white vinegar / descaling all over it for a start; it could just be a bit dirty/sticking somewhere. You can also get the bleaching tablets which will stop that happening, or the ones which make your water blue when you flush, which also help keep it all cleaner.

Is part A push down only, does it rotate? Is all this the only thing in the cistern, or is there another bit in there?
>> No. 2773 Anonymous
6th September 2020
Sunday 10:17 pm
2773 spacer
>>2772
Oh and one more thing - is your neighbour an upstairs/downstairs flat-type neighbour, or someone literally next door?
>> No. 2774 Anonymous
6th September 2020
Sunday 10:29 pm
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>>2772
I managed to get the white cap off but there's just what looks like an overflow pipe out inside it. Not sure how I'm going to get vinegar to stay anywhere on the thing but I can spray it down with it.
Neighbour is the same building, same water connection.
>> No. 2775 Anonymous
6th September 2020
Sunday 10:30 pm
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The main part of the button is to the left of that structure. Oh and part A rotates to adjust the height of the ballcock, which is that white box at the water level of the structure.
>> No. 2776 Anonymous
6th September 2020
Sunday 10:56 pm
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Think I improved the bits that came off with a brief vinegar soak, will do a longer one when I'm home alone. Cheers.

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>> No. 2759 Anonymous
9th August 2020
Sunday 6:12 pm
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My memory foam mattress topper is several years old, but it's still comfy. While I regularly wash the fabric outer cover, the inner foam is in definite need of a freshen up, too. How can I wash it? Should I just run a carpet cleaner over it? Tip a bucket of warm water and laundry detergent and leave to air dry?

Cheers lads.
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>> No. 2760 Anonymous
9th August 2020
Sunday 6:14 pm
2760 spacer
Just spray some Febreeze on.

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>> No. 2754 Anonymous
27th July 2020
Monday 1:00 pm
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No, not that seat. Same neck of the woods though.

This is the first toilet I've known where I'm not able to get at the back of it to unscrew the toilet seat. I understand they are called "closed" toilets. I've looked around for help online but most similar fittings seem to have a button similar to release a catch, but these don't, so I'm not sure how to get it off.

Is it possible that the design is some cheapo Chinese affair and didn't take the necessity of eventual replacement into account?
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>> No. 2755 Anonymous
27th July 2020
Monday 1:07 pm
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Can you pop off those chromed plastic covers? Jam screwdriver in and twist. Avert eyes, as there'll be a cloud of ancient rusty piss when they come free.
>> No. 2757 Anonymous
28th July 2020
Tuesday 2:26 am
2757 spacer
Thanks for the response. No, the big ones are on tight. The smaller ones came off without too much hassle, but as you can see, they weren't covering screws or anything obvious.
>> No. 2758 Anonymous
28th July 2020
Tuesday 3:07 am
2758 spacer
>>2754
Those are known as "top fix" seats. The seats typically click into place on the bolt. If push comes to shove, you may be able to just pull the thing off if you pull it vertically. This video shows an example of an entire fitting being changed. You'll see he literally just lifts the seat off, and uses a screwdriver to lever the caps off the fixing.


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