>>25678

After a cursory nosy it looks like he dumped her for some other GW nerd.

>>25679

He lost 7 stone, he's got the YouTube money rolling in, of course he was going to trade up. It's ironic that women are always trying to fix their partners, because one way or another it's doomed to fail.

>>25678
Looked into it on reddit, bit juicy.

https://www.reddit.com/r/MidwinterMinis/comments/uq6xjj/guy_and_penny_have_announced_their_split/

This is her apparently:

https://camas.unddit.com/#{%22author%22:%22ozzborne%22,%22searchFor%22:1,%22resultSize%22:100}

>>25681

Well if what she's saying in those posts is true, then regardless of anything else, that's a pretty harsh way to end things with the mother of your twins.

But in fairness we don't know either side of the story directly, we don't know why it happened. I expect we'll see a lot of stuff saying he's a monster for doing this and painting him as the villain, and frankly I wouldn't be at all surprised because he always came off like one of those a bit too nice people to me. But for all we know, she might have been a massive raging bitch non-stop for the last three years, and he's been a saint for putting up with it this long. For all we know he found out the kids weren't even his, and he's being an absolute paragon for not dragging her through the muck. We just don't know.

Two sides to every story, especially when it comes to relationships.

>>25682

More interesting than fucking watches, innit.

>>25683
>More interesting than fucking watches, innit.
Old ladies gossiping retracted.

Lads I'm really confused/frightened of Warhammer 40k stuff because it's so expensive and the community is full of people who take it very seriously so I could do with some advice. I'm lad in otherthread who had a girlfriend splash out on him and I got a 'Purgatos Mission Battleforce' along with paint and tools box for Christmas for some reason. She's assembled the tank but unpainted and otherwise it's untouched as far as I can tell.

I really tried to have her take this back because looking online it's going for a over a hundred quid new but I got a guilt trip that she'd "only take it back if it meant nothing to me". So that's that I guess; how do I sell this without getting ripped off? Otherlad got some abuse from the 40k sellers mafia when he tried to sell something cheap and I can fully imagine someone otherwise taking advantage of the fact that I have no idea what I'm doing. Is this going to be too much hassle to really be worth it? Do you have any guess at what a fair price is?

If you want it and are willing to pick up from London then I'm quite happy to give you a mates' rate if you promise not to doxx/knife me. Modlads I don't think you've said we can't do this but let me know otherwise.

>>25968

Stick them on eBay for ~10% less the third party retail price.

Warhammer stuff is pretty consistent in price and only ever fluctuates when a certain model is in demand due to short supply, being the new hotness in the meta, or having recently being nerfed from it's position as the new hotness and suddenly a load of sweatlords have 12 plasma inceptors they are no longer enamoured with.

You dodged a bullet, the woman was practically attempting to get you hooked on heroin and then drip feed you your fix so you couldn't ever leave her.

>>24731

>I won't have to buy another model until about 2023.

This was my post and I was absolutely right. That said I didn't paint a thing (or play any games) for the entire 2022.

>>25968

Did you express any interest in it before this or not? Seems an odd present otherwise.

You can flog it for quite good prices on ebay. Might be able to split it up and sell the individual kits for more than the whole box if you can be bothered.

>>25968
>"only take it back if it meant nothing to me"
That is such a great line. It made me feel guilty and I don't even know she exists.

I'm actually considering buying a small pack of Orks and paint because of your arseholes.

>>25973
Paint them blue and it won't take as long.

>>25968
I'm incredibly lazy so I thought I'd look at what troll trader would give me - £65. And that's not even including the pickup fee. At this point I'm going to stick it on ebay and mess about with postage out of spite. Talk about taking the piss.

Tempted to buy a box of Death Guard. I did buy a box of Orks a few years back, but I got bored of Orks as a concept but am really liking Nurgle stuff nowadays.

Where do you start with paints? Looking up paint schemes for Death Guard on the GW workshop it needs like £60 of paints.

>>26052

You start by not bothering with Citadel, just get a Vallejo or Army Painter starter set instead. You don't need to follow GW's "recipes" either, they rely on a very specific and rigid by the numbers kind of painting method and you definitely don't need all the paints they suggest.

The only Citadel paints I'd recommend are a big pot of Agrax Earthshade and Nuln Oil, that stuff works wonders. Stay away from GW's brushes and tools and such at all costs though. They're shite.

The thing is like with everything in this hobby, you should just do it gradually, not jump in feet first. Just buy a couple of bits at a time. Never give in to the temptation to buy everything you fancy all at once. Personally I started out with about 8 paints and just gradually bought a couple of new colours to experiment with every few months until I had shit loads.

>>26053
Any of the GW washes are fine but completely agreed with the rest, particularly the "one by one" mindset. It's not the paint or the brush that makes you competent, it's practice and patience. If you don't like GW prices, there are plenty of mini games out there to practice on and hey, you can kit bash them later.

>>26052
Get whatever brush you can get cheap. Get a base coat you like, a main colour and a wash which should be less than £15 total. If you have a take away box, some baking paper and tissue you can make a wet palette for free (just beware of mold). Look up "dry brushing" to make edges stand out, a "wash" is for highlighting not for literal washing. Blend blend blend! if it's meant to be organic. Less is more, water down your paints (or use a base if appropriate), you need maybe a drop of paint and three drops of water to start. It should be just shy of watery. Two or three coats is better than glooping it on. Embrace your mistakes, try to understand what happened and why. Learn your brush. Paint should be at the tip and not really go past the half way point. If paint reaches the fuller you've overdone it. Always clean your brushes when you're done or in 15 minute intervals (just swish them in water). You can learn "pretty good" in a few days, you will sometimes get lucky and make a miracle, but don't let anything discourage you. Get some tiny magnets, putty (or super glue) them under your bases, any biscuit tin then becomes an army box.

And most importantly, have fun with it! If any of the above doesn't gel with you then don't worry about it!

Thanks for the advice. Do I need a primer?

>>26056

It's much easier to get good results if you wash and prime your miniatures before painting. There are merits to both rattle-can and brush-on primers, so choose whichever you feel most comfortable with. You can start with just a grey primer, but some paint schemes are quicker and easier with a white, black or coloured primer.

>>26056
Don't forget to thin your paints huehuehue!

>>26057
Just to clarify: "washing" means cleaning, scrub the mini with soapy water and an old tooth brush then rinse it. Completely unrelated to "a wash", which is a very runny paint used for creating shadows/highlights.

>>26059
>>26057
You only need to wash resin kits, plastic is fine out of the box

>>26059
>>26057
You only need to wash resin kits, plastic is fine out of the box

>>26060

It's not because of the plastic, it's because of skin oils that you'll have got on the mini while you glued it together, which sometimes stops primers sticking properly.

Not exactly the most vital step, but if you want to do everything right it's good practice.

>>26060

Plastic usually (but not always) leaves the mould with little or no surface contamination, but you're handling the parts during assembly. That will leave skin oils on the surface that will affect paint adhesion. Water-based acrylics are relatively tolerant of surface contamination, but painting onto a spotlessly clean surface will give you a better finish and allow you to achieve thinner and more consistent coats; that's particularly critical for the primer coat. One of the big unstated advantages of using a painting handles is that you end up touching the mini much less.

Death Guard was a mistake. Lots of little fiddly poxwalkers. Should have gone with traditional Space Marines as they're robust and have a simple shape.

>>26064

With stuff like poxwalkers you can embrace sloppiness, you want them to be ugly. It's easy to block in the bits, slather them with loads of Agrax, then just go back to touch up a few details and they'll look exactly how they should.

I find that Marines are paradoxically hard despite the simplicity, because it means you've got to be really neat and clean or else it looks shit. An averagely painted marine doesn't look all that good, it requires you to put in the effort to do all the fiddly panel lining and edge highlights and what have you before it looks up to scratch.

>>26066
Two colours, that's all it takes. Especially for nids (purple/green blend). For non-chaos SMs base colour, highlight colour, probably some silver or gold for the edges. The brush is not holding you back, the lack of paint is not. Try to make do! Never buy to solve a problem, always think how you can solve it by yourself!

>>26069
I was wrong. Base colour (black, Abbaddon or vallejo), for SMs one colour plus silver or gold, maybe a wash, so four. They don't have to be GW, Vallejo or Army Painter are just fine.

We need to draw a line here between "table top quality" and "Golden Demon aspirant".

TTQ means your unit is recognisable, not that it holds up to a microscope. The latter is an art thing, almost but not quite removed from the TTG. I like painting minis (for Infinity) but you need to keep your aim in mind.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NuyU9Ee1018

No quick question, is the OP image AdMech or Iron Fist? Answers on a postcard.

I resolved to buy some Terminators this morning and paint them in the Deathwatch fashion. After about ten minuets of looking it appears there are new EZ build Terminators coming out so you can't get the "old" ones anymore and the Deathwatch specific Terminator models are rarer than hens teeth at this point. Feels like whenever I consider getting into 40k somehow I do so at the least opportune time.

>>26086
Looks Mechanicus to me.

>>26086
Ad Mech Tech Priest Enginseer
>>26087
The Deathwatch specific Terminator models aren't anything unique, they're just the normal terminators with the Deathwatch upgrade sprue bundled in

>>26091
I know all that. I said all that, come on, pay attention.

I found and ordered a single little fella' from Troll Trader anyway.

Joined a DnD 5E campaign with strangers. First session is on Sunday. I find the DnD system to be very clunky compared to other shit I've played, so I bought Solasta on Steam to hopefully get to grips with it. Playing a paladin, seems simple enough a class to learn, and I am generally a moralfag when it comes to games.

>>26094
How did it go?

The systems can be clunky but how that will play out depends a lot on how your group operates. Are they using D&D for collaborative story telling where the dice are suggestions, are they munchkins who take joy in breaking the game, or folks who enjoy a bit of story telling interspersed with their strategic play? None of those are "wrong" as long as everyone is on board.

Regarding painting Warhammers, would either of you have any advice about which paints to buy/where to find the best deals on that kind of thing?

>>26100
There's lots of options - so this advice assumes that you don't want to just follow the GW app paint recipe and only use their paints (but which is a perfectly acceptable approach).

I really like Vallejo paints - they are the perfect balance between quality and cost. GW paints are great, but expensive, where as Army Painter are cheap but pretty poor.
Instead of buying a million specific colours, get a decent starter set and learn how to mix colours. Something like this maybe?

https://elementgames.co.uk/paints-washes-etc/vallejo-paints/vallejo-paint-sets/vallejo-paint-set-game-colour-intro

There are some great painting resources on youtube, depending on what kind of painting styles you like. Duncan Rhodes is a meme for a reason, and a good starting point to learn the basics. Louise Sugden is also really good, she specialises in vibrant, super saturated colour schemes.

>>26101>>26100

Oh yeah, I should say that you should get a brown and a black wash too, alongside a decent basic paint set. Despite what I said above, Army Painters Strong Tone and Dark Tone are great options.

>>26101

The same starter set is a bargain £24 on Amazon. Add a tin of primer and a set of brushes and you're away.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Acylicos-Vallejo-Acrylic-Fantasy-Figures/dp/B000PHCTRK/

>>26104
Nice, that's a very good price. Might pick one up for my daughter to have her own set of paints.
You don't need expensive brushes at all, but it's worth looking after whatever ones you buy - try to avoid paint getting into the ferrule, and reshape the tips after use.

I have batch painted my Kill Team Orks using Army Painter's Speed Paints using the stupidly named slapchop method. I still need to go back over some bits like teeth, eyes and paint anything black again that's going to be metallic. I am impressed with how easy it was to do using rattle cans and pinching a couple of the Mrs' old makeup brushes for drybrushing.

The models had been built and undercoated black months ago, but yesterday I did the first bit of prep by drybrushing them grey all over, then a spritz of white spray paint. Today I got all the primary stuff done, with plans to try and get the finer details done at some point by the end of the week. I may go over the skin of the models with a different shade of green later on, since the Orc Skin green that comes with the starter set doesn't look great. The purple and red that used for the clothing looks really good though, with a nice amount of depth to the cloth.

The Old World launches next week. The models don't look as complex as 40K or AoS, I assume a stylistic decision. Only launches with Bretonnia and Tomb Kings. I have consumed far more 40K media than WH Fantasy, but The Old World looks very boring.

>>26290

They have to be a bit more regimented because in the game, they'll be used in actual line formation like historical infantry. Not like Sigmar and 40K where as long as a squad are all within 2" of each other it counts as a "coherent" unit.

In retrospect Fantasy was a bloody nuisance of a game that took the better part of a whole day if you wanted to get a proper game in. I don't understand why they are doing things this way though- I have a feeling they've got it the wrong way around and it will ultimately please nobody, like a economically conservative but socially liberal Labour manifesto. People like the simplified rules of Sigmar but the "lore" is a steaming dog turd weaker than most mobile games. People love the lore of Fantasy but the rules were a pain in the arse nobody wants to have back.

I have a feeling it'll only be a few years and they will retcon Sigmar and revert the setting to just be Fantasy 2.0 but with a few new races. You know like how everyone thought the sky was falling because of Primaris marines, but eventually we all just accepted it's just a cosmetic update and not to worry about it. It'll end up like that I bet.

Can we take a second to appreciate the AdMech paint job? I'll put my Eisenhorn hard back to one side, take no umbrage with Sororitas, don't mind the Orc sillyness. But that is a bloddy beautiful painting.

>>26290
>>26291

Another notable point is the line troops for the launch are at least 20 years old at this point (I remember the Bretonnian plastics being released first time round way-back).

The Tomb Kings skeletons are from 1998 or 1999 (the shields were made a little later and just added to the vampire counts kit).

>>26292

Miniature painting is a really good example of how YouTube has quietly changed the world. The quality of painting has changed beyond all recognition over the last 10 years, because it's so much easier to access good information.

When I was a lad, anyone learning to paint was reliant on White Dwarf and the people who happened to hang out in their local GW store. Priming your minis or thinning your paint marked you out as a "serious" painter and I had never even heard of a wet palette or an airbrush. These days, anyone can watch long and detailed tutorials from the best painters in the world, so anyone with a bit of ambition can improve incredibly quickly. For people returning to the hobby in middle-age, there's a real sense of culture shock, like encountering an iPhone when all you've known is the ZX Spectrum.

I know that something very similar has happened in the guitar world, with a new crop of bedroom prodigies emerging; it doesn't matter all that much if you're a teenager in a remote town with no access to formal tuition or a community of good players, because everything you could ever need to know is available on the internet for free. Presumably the same thing is happening in all sorts of other fields.

>>26291
I always loved the idea of WH Fantasy, but don't have the space for lots more models.
I've just bought some 15mm 3D prints (scaled up from Warmaster strips) to see how they look painted up, which seems much more suitable to mass battles than 28mm